A+A FEMME - Women S/S 2022
This is a moment when everything previously taken for granted is turned around. Meetings, even first dates, happen remotely. Take-out food is the new fine dining. Dressing up means throwing on the blouse that hangs nearby from the back of a chair, and perhaps applying the lipstick that sits next to the laptop.
With fewer opportunities for flaunting a new look, what does it mean to shop, to crave a new accessory, or dream up a fresh ensemble? What is fashion when even the daily act of getting dressed becomes optional?
Those activities, once key manifestations of womanhood, are now performed in a vacuum. The beloved pursuit of wandering boutiques is replaced with a lackadaisical scroll through shopping sites; a favorite frock gets a grainy waist-up view during a Zoom quarantine hour. But within these limitations, something curious is happening, Without the traditional parameters of “appropriateness” or “status” or “latest thing”, dressing becomes a pure act of self-expression, less about impressing others and more about pleasing oneself.
This Era has taught us that the days of binary “either/or” thinking are over; a “both/and” attitude is here to stay. In keeping with this hybrid philosophy, this second edition of Femme is meant to serve as both guide and inspiration. Ideas can be used, as is, or interpreted freely to fit your brand, your customer, and your vision.
This volume aims to spark designs that are both practical and fanciful, both glamorous and casual, both innovative and timeless, and both individually expressive and suggestive of our collective experience.
KEY THEMES FOR SS22
Muslin & Lace
This theme is about celebrating the time-honored dress-making methods taking us back in time to historical ambiances rather than retro. Corsetry, draping effects, antique handiwork like pintucks ruffles, embroideries, offer nostalgia but with a contemporary twist. 18th and 19th-century vision of a romantic past, while a modern sensibility comes from raw edges, unfussy constructions, and a "dishabille" approach.
• Keywords: dressmaker, deconstructed, romantic, humble perfection, handmade details, Artisanal lace.
• Colors: a palette of creams with touches of bluish shades and peach, rose pink.
• Prints: pastoral landscape prints, archive patterns, and embroideries.
• Materials: It's all about simple fabrics like muslin, handkerchief linen, cotton eyelet lace, cotton voile, etc
• Key products: knits go lacey for tops and cardigans, drawstring pants, new sweater bras, openwork socks. lace works for dresses, skirts, tailored suits. Ruffles, frills. flounces with handmade romantic touches for hand-made nighties, dresses, shirts, accessories.
Inspired by caravan road trips, country to country travels, a slow-living filled with discoveries and weekend trips to remote villages adding local influences along the way. A minimalist approach to rustic means that surfaces are scrubbed clean and clutter is well organized. A sense of reclaimed heritage pervades, with a mix of prints that is essential as is a mix of influences. Vintage America, European peasants, traditional African and more.
• Keywords: Leisurely, freeform farmhouse, inclusive, layered mix, the new at-homewear, local crafts and influences, authenticity.
• Colors: a range of dimmed-down tones that contrast each other from shades of green, to pink, yellow, peach and blue.
• Prints: gingham-checked, African Dutch wax, Indian block prints, simple floral motifs, scattered blooms.
• Materials: American quilts, flocked tuille, loom-woven plaids, cottons, and other natural fibers.
• Key products: mixing and layering, from petticoats over pants or skirts, shirts or tees under sundresses and cardigans or jackets. Dresses replace sweats for homewear.
Inspired by the deepened appreciation of the planet. The fascination with natural materials and time-honored craft gets richer and more textural. The untamed world is perceived through an intensified lens. A terrestrial vibe is where every aspect of a garment or object's lifecycle is considered. A process to protect rather than deplete resources. Workers are valued and craft is celebrated.
• Keywords: One with nature, Earthen textures, Mindful, Sustainable, delicate botanicals, weaving nature, new vegetal dyes.
• Colors: mineral colors- gold glow, earthy browns, ochres and reds, natural dyes like pigmented beetroot.
• Prints: botanicals and undulating lines, leaf and vine,
• Materials: bio-degradable sequins, handwoven raffia, waxed leathers, supple knits, linens, sheer materials, fluid silks
• Key Products: longer lengths skirts, asymmetrical cuts for tops, basketweaves, macramés sweaters, fringes and beads for garments and accessories.
This them, offers another view of the natural world, this one seen through the lenses of sea and sky. Transparency conjures a feeling of airly freshness that is both literal and metaphorical. Transparency also means honest communication with consumers as to production and sustainable practices.
• Keywords: Sea meets sky, flowy & floaty, Ethereal, modern mermaid, diaphanous, sparkling and twilight, cloud 9, atmospheric.
• Colors: atmospheric blues and aquas mixed with sunshine yellow and seafoam green.
• Prints: blurry prints, tie-dyes and painterly effects, swirly motifs,
• Materials: sheer and openwork fabrics, silk & satins, sinuous knits, chiffons, plissés, mesh and pointelle knits, intricate embroideries
• Key Products: silky long dresses, satin blouses and visible undergarments, clutch bags for accessories.
This theme is driven by the vivid colors, by those hues that become powerful statements of authority, and standing out, especially when cut into strong shapes and volumes. A look-at-me-attitude which is going brighter and bolder!
• Keywords: Tailored or dramatic, outspoken, deep drama, powerful, radical chic, pump-it up, empowering, 40',70',80's
• Colors: vivid colors from shades of purple to fuchsia and emerald green.
• Prints: Color Block is key! fewer prints more color! Solids rather than printed but giants dots & slogans are welcome!
• Materials: shiny fabrics with glazed finishes, satins and lacquered fabrics, smooth suiting fabrics, stretchable fabrics.
• Key Products: high volume or neatly tailored outfits. Oversized flounces and crispy pleats, strong-shouldered jackets and bold pantsuits, foldable travel slippers, sporty accessories and long dresses.
Dreaming of a future mixed with Mod-Era of the 60's optimism and whimsical fantasy. Optimism pervades the dreamland attitude. A sense of make-believe to elevate every day. Radical hope brings a dose of much-needed endorphins, stimulating creative strategies for a utopian future.
• Keywords: Gentle, blissful, light & lovely, fantasy, delicate, delightful, dreamy, floaty and airy, 60's "Mod" influence
• Colors: whitened, pale, buttercream colors, light pinks and lilac with touches of powder blue.
• Prints: floaty florals, flower petals, bold graphic prints, subtle dip-dye arty techniques, watercolors.
• Materials: sheer chiffons, point d'esprit netting & organzas, gossamer layers are key, featherweight fabrics.
• Key products: floral suits and Mod influenced shapes like dapper pants and square-toed pumps and volumes, flounced baby-dolls, boxy jackets.
Sometimes less is more. This theme is all about this, "the fewer the better" philosophy. Multi-tasking basics are meant to last, with quality materials, and rigorous workmanship. Quality is a key attribute. restraints, precision and grace result in a stylish yet timeless aesthetic.
• Keywords: sculptured precision, balanced, modernist classics, elegant, erogenous zones, second skin, sleek and sensuous.
• colors: A neutral palette evoking calmness. Dirty off-whites/dusty shades of light browns, a touch of calligraphic blue.
• Prints: fine art techniques like pen & ink, hand-drawn repeats, with motifs ranging from whimsical illustrations to florals.
• Materials: Lush fabrics like summer velvets, stretchy jersey, supple leathers or pleather.
• Key products: tailored pieces modernized with a new cut from " too big" aesthetics that update pants and roomy blazers. backs of waistlines with sports-openings or slits, supple ballet slippers, filament knits.
A Haute Bohemian atmosphere where tea-leaves are read, incense burnt and rich brocades stir the gypsy soul. This theme satisfies the pent-up need to dress up. The undulated power of fabulous clothing is celebrated in rich brocades, strong silhouettes, bold patterns, eye-catching accessories. The trend towards luxury resale makes rarefied designer items more democratic than precious, to be worn every day rather than only for special occasions. A Haute suburban attitude with a dose of irony and joy!
• Keywords: 80's extrovert, indulgent, up-cycled splendor, exuberance, eclectic, the pleasure of dressing-up, expression vs practicality.
• Colors: vintage colors-bubble pink, red, emerald green, blue jeans.
• Prints: fruits, jungle, orchids, animal motifs, layers of prints.
• Materials: Rich fabrics velvets, faux furs) and sparkling embellishments ( crystals, glitter, gems, chains)
• Key products: cocktail dresses are layered over t-shirts, sparking sweaters top leggings, ladylike blouses, decorated jackets, shoulders stronger, skirts shorter.